Pork Alchemy: Transforming Christmas Ham into Barbecue

As much as I enjoy a good spiral cut Christmas ham, it’s not as good as barbecue.  I decided to perform a little pork alchemy and attempt to turn my leftover ham into barbecue. My secret recipe follows:

1. Dice the ham to make it somewhat resemble barbecue.

2. Sauce the ham liberally with barbecue sauce (in this case from the North Carolina Barbecue Company).

3. Eat.

Although the end product bears little resemblance to NC barbecue in appearance, taste or texture, it does taste pretty decent in its own right. Gratuitous before, during and after pictures follow.

Happy (Barbecue) Turkey Day

Newsflash: Thanksgiving is tomorrow. 

You still have time to put your bird in a brine bath and get it ready to barbecue tomorrow.  Barbecued turkey is delicious and keeps the oven free for all the other Thanksgiving delicacies, which is convenient.  Need a recipe?  You could do a lot worse than this one for Bourbon-Brined Smoked Turkey.  If you don’t have an actual smoker, you can follow this basic recipe but cook over indirect heat on a Weber or even a gas grill (I’ll confess that the latter is all I have the time/patience for on Thanksgiving).  Also, you can raise the temperature up to 300 or so without burning the bird. If you want to get fancy, and have a thing for needles, I recommend using a flavor injector to add basting liquid (chicken broth with herbs and melted butter works great) into the bird’s thighs and breast before putting on the grill.

However you cook your bird, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Hanukkah Coming Soon: Still Time to Buy a Pork Cookbook

Fellow BBQ Jews, need I remind you that Hanukkah comes early in the year 5771? (That’s 2010 for you genteel gentile readers.)  Indeed, the Jewish Festival of Lights begins less than one month from today, as you can likely tell from all the Hanukkah tunes polluting the radio (my local station has “Latkes Roasting on an Open Fire” in predictably heavy rotation).  Though time is slipping away, rest assured it’s not too late to find the perfect Hanukkah gift for the ones you love. 

In case this website sells out of BBQ Jew Merch again, as it has in many past Hanukkah shopping seasons, then consider buying The White Book instead.  As implied by the awkward title (awkward at least for those of us in America, where “white” suggests a mayonnaise-loving racial group more so than a type of meat), The White Book is a pork cookbook.  It was written for Israeli Jews by an Israeli Jew.  Former cardiologist, current author and likely future hate mail recipient Dr. Eli Landau is a not too serious man after my own heart (as The New York Times article puts it, “ANY author has to deal with bad reviews, but how about the wrath of God?”).  He waxes poetic about the other white meat, telling the Times, “Pork meat is to a cook like canvas to a painter.”  He also goes on record suggesting that Israeli Jews will abandon their pork-scorning behavior in a couple of decades; a bold assertion for a people awash in thousands of years of tradition and religious teachings but time will tell. 

Alas, the Mediterranean focus of Landau’s cookbook seems to exclude North Carolina style barbecue pork from the list of recipes, but no matter.  Assuming The White Book manages to break down the thousands of years old wall of anti-pork (and pro-boiled chicken) sentiment among my Jewish brethren then no doubt whole hog barbecue will soon sweep the Promised Land quicker than Moses parted the Red Sea.  Until then, at least you’ll have a nice cookbook to get you through the holiday season if you get sick of latkes.

Recipes to Share?

Readers,

As you may have alread concluded, one of this site’s numerous weaknesses is its lack of recipes.  This fact has been pointed out to me by several regular readers (and by my own wife, bless her, who is not a regular reader).  I’d like to remedy this problem but need your help. If you have a North Carolina barbecue-related recipe to share, please send it to me at  BBQJew at gmail.com or by leaving a comment on this post. Note that I only want recipes you have a right to use; e.g., your mama’s coleslaw recipe would work but the coleslaw recipe you stole from page 126 of Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue would not.  Got it?  Good.  Your reward for sharing a recipe will be getting acknowledgment when I post the recipe and maybe even getting discovered by the producers of The Food Network’s “Next Boiled Barbecue Potato Star” or whatever.

Thanks in advance, and I’ll try and semi-regularly share recipes in the months ahead,

Porky

BBQ&A: James Villas, Writer and Cookbook Author

A self-described “Southerner by birth and temperament and appetite,” James Villas has given the people of his native North Carolina many reasons to be proud over the years.  His latest cookbook, Pig: King of the Southern Table, is perhaps the most significant reason yet.   Tarheels and tarheels at heart will be wowed by Pig’s wide-ranging collection of recipes, which describe how to cook every part of the pig one could ever imagine wanting to eat (and then some). 

Long before penning his culinary ode to North Carolina’s favorite animal, Villas received his PhD in Romance Languages and Comparative Literature and served a stint as a university professor.  Soon he left academia to follow his heart/stomach (they are one and the same after all) into the world of food writing.  Villas spent the next 27 years of his life as Food and Wine Editor of Town & Country magazine.  In addition, he has written for Esquire, Gourmet, Food & Wine, Bon Appétit, Life, and The New York Times, and published a baker’s dozen of cookbooks, two novels, and a memoir.  Mr. Pig himself was kind enough to chat with us about biscuits, barbecue and his heart-wrenching (for us readers) decision to never write another cookbook focused on swine.  Enjoy…

Follow this link to read the interview with James Villas.

The Amazing World of Ribs

The weekend is almost here, summer is fading into fall, and it’s the perfect time of year to fire up the grill.  Next time you cook out, you might should consider taking a break from burgers and hot dogs.  You might should want to cook some barbecue.  But you might don’t have a grill large enough for a whole hog or even a pork shoulder.  Plus, slow-cooking those big ol’ cuts o’ pig is more time consuming than most people can handle.  Ribs make for a nice change of pace for North Carolina barbecue addicts, but I’m guessing you might could use some guidance on which cut of ribs to buy.

The best website I’ve seen on exploring the wonderful world of ribs is without a doubt AmazingRibs.com.  Check the site out when you get a chance.  Until then, read the recent Huffington Post article by AmazingRibs.com creator Meathead Goldwyn.  “Unfuddling the Many Different Cuts of Ribs” is an illustrated guide to understanding and selecting the right ribs for your next cook out.  Happy ribbing…

Ash(hole) Wednesday

Raleigh-based sculptor Joel Haas sent me a note describing one of his recent projects.  Here’s what he had to say about his folk art pig cooker:

The pig cooker naked

Porky,

Attached are several photos of a new, larger pig shaped pig cooker I recently made and shipped to a BBQ fanatic in Alabama.  The tail opens to make a smokestack; there is a steel “thought balloon” painted in chalkboard paint on which a cook can write messages or “pig thoughts”; used charcoal and wood is cleaned out of the “ashhole.”   The inside grill racks can be set at a steep angle over the coals allowing one to place slower cooking meat high up on the rack and faster cooking items lower of the racks where they are just over the coals. There are a number of hooks for hanging implements on the push handle; the grill opens using a handle made of forks and spoons.  One of the photos shows the grill at the powder coat painter’s with the side open and tail open (see inset); the black heat resistant paint is good to 1200 degrees F; there is a small hole to set a thermometer in near the tail.    

Note that the pig has my trademark lavender eyelashes and toenails in its final painted form (see photo below). Yes, the outer paint will scorch some around the grill door and along the bottom and maybe even along the top, though I doubt that area will scorch much; the head is merely decorative.  There is a black steel loop above the ashhole to put a chain through so the pig won’t “wander off.”  

As usual, there are NO provisions for the unrighteous and heretical practice of gas grilling.

The pig cooker with its paints on

Swine & Wine

I’ve had a lot of different drinks with barbecue over the years: beer, water, lemonade, Cheerwine, Pepsi and yes, of course, ice tea, to name a few.  But I’d never thought seriously about pairing wine and barbecue.  Somehow it just didn’t seem right: humble barbecue and that snooty vino stuff.  As far as I was concerned wine belonged with barbecue about as much as lobster belonged on a peanut butter & jelly sandwich.  But a recent experience made me think again.

A wine distributor contacted me and offered to send me a couple bottles of Argentinian wine if I was willing to have some friends over to sample it alongside barbecue.  (Generous offer, not-so-subtle attempt at free advertising, bribe?  You decide).  I was going to say no thanks but curiousity and the willingess to do anything for a free bottle of alcohol swayed me.  Plus, it occurred to me that the people of Argentina are notorious meat eaters and undoubtedly pair wine with their carnivore diet all the time.

The wine I received was a 2008 bottle of Broquel Malbec from Trapiche, which is Argentina’s largest premium wine exporter.  (See this link for some interesting background on Malbec.)  Because Broquel Malbec has a rich, complex flavor Trapiche recommends pairing it with flavorful foods like “stew made of game, lamb, or wild boar.”  Given the surprising lack of availability of wild boar at my local grocer (when is boar season ’round here anyway?), and my distaste for stew in 100 degree August weather, I figured barbecue would be a good substitute.

I invited some friends over for NC-style barbecue pork butt and Texas-style beef brisket.  I told my friends not to bother to bring drinks, since wine was on the menu.  My wine loving friends didn’t flinch but the alert barbecue lovers voiced some concern.  Luckily, free booze and ‘cue is hard to resist. 

The results were great. I can vouch that the complex fruit flavors of the Broquel Malbec paired well with the smoky, rich meaty flavors of the barbecue.  Perhaps because the beef brisket had a stronger flavor, the wine worked particularly well with it.  Still, even the relatively subtle flavors of the pork were not overwhelmed by the Broquel Malbec.  Live, drink and learn.  I’m not giving up ice tea as my preferred BBQ drink but I’ll catch myself next time my eyes roll at the mention of wine and barbecue!

Memorial Day Barbecue Rub

It’s Memorial Day again, the official start of grilling and barbecuing season.  (If you don’t know the difference between these two things then you should be ashamed and should do some remedial reading.)  Last year we posted simple directions for barbecue that anyone with a basic charcoal grill and some time can follow.  The directions work on a gas grill too, but you wouldn’t want to hurt our feelings, would you?

In honor of Memorial Day 2010, we suggest you heat up your cooker and make some barbecue.  Below is a rub you can use to prepare a Boston Butt per the directions linked above.  The recipe works pretty well as the rub for dry ribs too.  Oh, and keep in mind that traditional NC barbecue really doesn’t need anything other than salt as a rub, but since it’s a holiday weekend and you have plenty of time you may as well go the extra mile.

  • 1.5 Tablespoon sweet (i.e., not hot) paprika
  • 2 Teaspoons brown sugar
  • 1 Tablespoon chili powder
  • 1 Teaspoon cumin
  •  Teaspoon ground black pepper
  • 0.5 Teaspoon garlic powder
  • 0.5 Teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • Last but not least, 2 Teaspoons kosher salt (this is BBQJew.com, after all)

Mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl or with a mortar and pestle (though if you do the latter, don’t tell your friends as they may laugh at you).  Generously apply the rub to the raw pork up to 24 hours before cooking, or if you aren’t much for planning ahead then just put the rub on the meat as you’re heating up your cooker.  This recipe makes plenty of rub for a 5+ pound Boston Butt, and the unused rub should keep for many months if you keep it in an airtight container.  Enjoy and have a happy and safe holiday.

Curle’s Cue

Walking into a complete stranger’s backyard and enjoying fine home-smoked pork is a tough assignment, but somebody has to do it. And we are those somebodies.

James Curle, savvy man that he is, regularly reads this here blog and thought he’d throw an invite our way to his sixth annual Curlefest. Porky and I, devoted bloggers, barbecue hounds and suckers for a free meal, were happy to oblige.

James Curle with his beloved

With the spell of the swine the only icebreaker we’d need, we were soon swapping tales and inspecting Curle’s ingenious temporary smoker that he adapted from the inimitable Holy Smoke. The best feature was the split top that slid apart to allow hog checking without losing too much heat.

And about that hog: Curle got a half hog from the Nahunta outlet at the Raleigh Farmer’s Market. After ten hours of smoking with good ol’ Kingston and a little kosher (l’chaim!) salt, the pork was ready. And was it ever.

Curle chopped and seasoned some swine, but graciously left a good amount on the smoker for picking. True to my name, I nabbed a rib or two and was not sorry I did.

Before the ‘cue, the event also included a diversionary cornhole tournament. The game Stephen Colbert called a “cross between horseshoes and sodomy” likely began as an attempt to distract attendees from the amazing, smokey aromas emanating from the pit (man I wish you could link to a smell). There was no distracting this rabbi of ribs.

By the time we left–greasy fingered–we weren’t exiting a stranger’s yard, but a newfound barbecue buddy’s. The pickin’ was a real example of ‘cue-aided community-building, as the event brought together neighbors, friends, congregants, co-workers, and, well, bloggers.

A final note: Curle wanted us to note that his dog is named Jerry, an allusion to jheri curls. Consider it done, James! And thanks very much for the hog and hospitality.

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