Restaurants & Reviews | BBQ Jew

BBQ Jew’s View: Country Barbeque

Posted on April 17, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

4012 W Wendover Ave, Greensboro, NC
336.292.3557‎
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: B
Porky Says: “Good enough to make you dance.”

Barbecue Clubs and Gentleman’s Joints
Country Barbeque is the only barbecue joint I know of that is located immediately adjacent to a strip club. (See the Google Maps street view–note that what look like large stained glass windows on the strip club are actually fake, which is probably consistent with what lies inside the club.) Luckily, Country Barbeque’s naughty neighbor is not the main reason to visit.

Country Barbeque in Greensboro, from http://hkentcraig.com/BBQ36.html

Electric Table Dance
The food that the friendly, efficient wait staff at Country Barbeque bring to the table is quite good. The joint serves moist, tasty barbecue that is chopped to an ideal consistency—not too fine and not too chunky. The dip that accompanies the ‘cue is an excellent, sharply vinegared dark brown mixture that is reminiscent of the dip served at Lexington #1. The red barbecue slaw that accompanied my ‘cue was good, although a little bit sweet for my taste. The hush puppies were only mediocre, as they were small and somewhat overcooked. I had a better than average piece of homemade peach cobbler for dessert.

Now understand that I say all these positive things about the pork served at Country Barbeque knowing full well that they do not cook it over wood coals. Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Gas/electric-cooked, Grade B, Greensboro, Guilford County, Lexington style, Sex | 1 Comment »

Backyard BBQ 2: Electric Boogaloo

Posted on April 13, 2009 by The Rib Rabbi

When we heard that the Backyard BBQ Pit was opening a new location, we BBQ Jews were excited and surprised (with an emphasis on the latter). And so we had to check it out for ourselves.

Will there be another Backyard BBQ? All signs point to yes.

Sure enough…Bingo:

The new Pit will be dug in the old Pizza Palace location. While it will likely be a win for barbecue fans (as long as the owners bring some of their wood pile north to Guess Road), it’s a bummer to see the Palace’s coffin sealed shut. After all, they made a decent pie and had a…swingin’ vibe.

For us, though, it’s a fitting transition. The Palace was a real karaoke hot spot. By the power of “Copa Cabana” and “Sweet Caroline,” that means the spirit of Barry Manilow and Neil Diamond still haunts the building.

And that’s appropriate as they’re both true BBQ Jews. (Well, at least they’re Jews).

Anyway, we’ll be among the first in line when The Pit II opens. And yes, we’ll be humming “Sweet Caroline.”

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Durham | 3 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Bullock’s Bar B Cue

Posted on April 8, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

3330 Quebec Dr., Durham, NC
919.383.3211
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C
Porky Says: “Never mind the Bullock’s.”

Not Really a Barbecue Joint
I think I’d like Bullock’s more if it didn’t serve barbecue.

It’s not that Bullock’s barbecue is bad, but it seems like an afterthought on a huge menu that does a good job serving southern food from fried chicken to fish to ham, with all the sides you could ever want. Bullock’s is a pretty good southern style restaurant that also serves so-so, Eastern-style electric-cooked barbecue (they long ago abandoned cooking over wood). The barbecue is pretty non-descript, standard fare for wood-free, Eastern-style ‘cue, though it is available either chopped or sliced, which adds some variety. Frankly, I’m not sure what else to say about the barbecue, especially after seeing how Bullock’s attorneys have reacted to comments H. Kent Craig made about rumors regarding the source of Bullock’s barbecue.

: Bullock’s spacious dining room. Picture taken from http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3321910552_25fd70ac3c.jpg

It’s A Family Affair
Bullock’s is a family-run business that draws a mixed crowd of Durham natives, Duke students who have likely never tasted barbecue anywhere else except for possibly the Original Q-Shack, and the occasional celebrity. (The vintage 1980’s picture of Bono and U2 with the classic, underwhelmed caption “Band from Ireland” is far and away my personal favorite.). There is actually much to like about Bullock’s, especially the “family style” dinners where everyone in your dining party agrees to eat what amounts to a buffet brought to your table—bottomless bowls of barbecue, chicken, vegetables, etc. And the endless supply of sweet, soft hush puppies that accompanies every meal is hard to resist, even if it is a wee bit unnecessary.

Closing Thoughts
Bullock’s has probably helped spread the gospel of barbecue to tens of thousands of folks over the years, especially given the number of out of town visitors who find their way to Bullock’s through Duke or other connections. Hopefully many of those folks have gone on to try some ‘cue from other joints that do more justice to the ‘cue NC has to offer. Still, if you can manage your expectations, you shouldn’t be disappointed by the overall dining experience at Bullock’s. I’ve always enjoyed my trips there because of the friendly atmosphere, the large and diverse crowd of diners, and the fact that Bullock’s really is a Durham institution. As long as you don’t go to Bullock’s looking for a great plate of barbecue you’ll enjoy yourself.

For an interesting post on the history of Bullock’s Bar B Cue, see our pal at Endangered Durham’s post here.

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Durham, Durham County, Eastern style, Gas/electric-cooked, Grade C | 6 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Scott’s

Posted on March 23, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

1201 N. William St., Goldsboro, NC
(919) 734-0711
Scott’s Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C
Porky Says: “Pay Scott’s your respects, or just buy a bottle of their sauce.”

A Proud History
I’ve been traveling to Goldsboro for work for the past couple years and finally was able to catch the legendary Scott’s on a day when the dining room was open. The owners had recently recovered from some health problems that had kept them from running the restaurant for several months. They are now open a couple days a week for lunch. Although the barbecue was middle of the road at best (alas, it has been years since Scott’s wood-cooked their ‘cue), I am very happy to have made my way through Scott’s doors.

Scott’s has been selling barbecue for over 90 years, which is an amazing feat in itself and makes it one of the oldest barbecue joints around (and likely one of the longest running family-owned businesses in NC). Many people know Scott’s for its sauce, which is the most widely available of NC barbecue sauces, but may be unaware of the restaurant. It sits in a modest building right next to a large but unassuming bottling facility, where Scott’s peppery hot vinegar

Alas, these days no wood is harmed in Scott's pit

Tree huggers rejoice, it has been years since any wood was harmed by Scott's pit

concoction is made and distributed.

The history is palpable at Scott’s, especially with the portrait of founder Rev. Adam Scott on the walls and the fact that his grandkids run the place today. This kind of family legacy is what NC barbecue is all about. Rev. Scott was an African-American preacher who started selling barbecue out of his home in 1917. According to Holy Smoke it was not long before Rev. Scott decided to close in his porch and call his home a restaurant. In the late-1940s, after a Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Eastern style, Gas/electric-cooked, Goldsboro, Grade C, Wayne County | 7 Comments »

Rabbi’s Rant: Danny’s

Posted on March 18, 2009 by The Rib Rabbi

Danny's...interesting logo

There’s plenty to say about this sign from Danny’s Bar-B-Que, but not much to like. Hence, some good natured ribbing:

First off, claiming to have the “Best BBQ in Cary” might just be the most backhanded compliment in the history of mankind. For those not in the know or the state, Cary is our much-maligned center of yuppydom. To be fair, it looks like they have three locations, so they aren’t just in Cary. (It’s OK, we still love you, Cary).

Plus, it’s a little odd that this pig, who we’ll call Danny, is squirting himself with sauce. He’s basically basting himself. What kind of death wish does Danny have? Although I do appreciate that it’s that oh-so-Carolina of squirt bottles.

Also, yeah right–like a pig could hold a squirt bottle. Hello?? We see that he has hooves on three legs, but then–oh, how convenient–Danny has one magical thumb hoof.

Now I’m all for anthropomorphic pigs, but Danny looks almost human. Is there any kind of mythical centaur-like creature that’s a pig with one human thumb?And why do we have to see this mythical pig/man thing’s butt?

Because nothing makes me hungry like the sight of a pigman’s butt. Pass the sauce, you crazy, mythical thumbhoof pigman.

— —

Note: I have not eaten at Danny’s and, hence, can’t comment on their barbecue. I just wish they’d get a new sign.

Filed under: Rabbi's Rants/Raves, Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Cary, Logos and signs | 3 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: A&M Grill [Now Closed]

Posted on March 15, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

OUT OF BUSINESS AS OF JULY 2011!

401 E. Center St., Mebane, NC
919.563.3721
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: A-
Porky Says: “Damn fine swine, well worth your time.”

It’s the Barbecue, Stupid.
I love the A&M Grill, but it’s definitely not for the faint of heart (then again, neither is reading online reviews of barbecue joints so you can probably handle it). The outside is unassuming at best and the interior is not what I’d describe as warm and cozy. But who cares? The barbecue is what matters, and the A&M delivers great ‘cue.

The Reeds hit the nail on the head when we asked them what they look for in a barbecue joint and they told us: “Barbecue… The meat’s what matters, at least as far as I’m concerned. I don’t give a damn about the décor or the ‘ambience.'” They’re right: if the swine is fine, let’s dine! And if you can’t cook the swine, I ain’t got the time.

Behind the A&M Grill: not scenic but still a glorious sight.

Hard Work Pays Off
In my humble opinion, the A&M serves some damn fine swine. The pork shoulders are wood-cooked the old fashioned way and the A&M’s efforts pay off in the form of succulent, tender, hickory-kissed pork that has plenty of outside brown. The Lexington style dip is thicker than I tend to prefer, with more ketchup than needed, but Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Alamance County, Grade A, Lexington style, Mebane, Wood-cooked | 4 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: White Swan Bar-B-Q & Fried Chicken

Posted on March 4, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

Multiple Locations around Johnston County, NC
Multiple Phone Numbers
One Website
(with multiple menus, multiple photos, & more)
BBQ Jew’s Grade: B (about the highest we’ll go on gas/electric-cooked)
Porky Says: “Gas-cooked pig at a gas station, but it’s good.”

Running on Empty
“What kind of idiot stops for barbecue at a gas station?,” I asked myself. And then I answered my own question.

Logo from H. Kent Craig's NC-Style BBQ Site

I had driven past the two gas station-embedded White Swans alongside Highway 70 between Raleigh and Goldsboro several times before this particular day. I had never before had a good meal at a gas station, and I didn’t see any particular reason to try and change that history. Furthermore, I am skeptical of chain restaurants in general and barbecue chains in particular, and White Swan has six locations (six is a heck of a lot by BBQ standards and is five more than most good joints). Plus, there really is nothing about the White Swans on Highway 70 that stands out. Perhaps if the gas stations that house the White Swans were rustic old service stations with overall-clad mechanics pumping gas from a one handled pump I’d have been more intrigued. But these are just dull, modern, no-service stations. Still, today was different: it was dinner time and my gas tank was desperately low. I decided to order a plate of good old fashioned pork grease biofuel along with my tank of 87 Regular. Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Atlantic Beach, Benson, Clayton, Eastern style, Gas/electric-cooked, Grade B, Johnston County, Pine Level, Smithfield | 3 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: The Pit (A Non-Review)

Posted on February 24, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

328 W. Davie St., Raleigh, NC
919.890.4500
The Pit’s Website
(caution: this website is dangerously slick)
BBQ Jew’s Grade: I for incomplete
Porky Says: “Can’t we leave well enough alone?!”

Reservations
I just can’t bring myself to go to The Pit.

If barbecue was meant to be upscale it wouldn’t be made of chopped pork. And if folks in Raleigh need cloth napkins and a glass of chardonnay to enjoy barbecue, then perhaps they should just do without and leave the pork for the huddled masses. That said, The Pit’s pitmaster Ed Mitchell is a legend of NC barbecue. He used to own a joint in Wilson that had a stellar reputation, and sadly I never had the good fortune to visit it. That fact alone has almost drawn me to visit The Pit.

Main Course
Unfortunately, The Pit is a far cry from Mitchell’s old place—it is set up as more of a barbecue zoo than a barbecue joint, putting the wild barbecue beast on display for visitors to stare at while keeping a safe distance. The Pit’s website claims the restaurant is “a celebration of all of the great culinary offerings of the Old North State.” Based on the menu, apparently North Carolina’s “great culinary offerings” include Hot Spinach Bacon Dip with Baked Baguette Chips, Meatloaf with Onion Demi and Blue Cheese Crumbles, and Barbecued Tofu. I have never seen tofu slow-cooked over wood coals but I can only imagine tofu lets out a squeal that would scare the vegetarian right out of even the most devout PETA member. If serving tofu at a barbecue restaurant is not a sin in the First Church Synagogue of ‘Que, I am not sure what is.

Judging a book by its cover... (photo by Alaina B via Flickr)

Just Desserts
In fairness, The Pit’s menu features some classic whole hog NC barbecue and sides, and I have little doubt that Ed Mitchell is a great pitmaster. Plus, the focus on locally raised organic hogs and local produce is admirable. I just can’t quite bring myself to visit a barbecue zoo when a true barbecue safari can be had within 20 miles in any direction.

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Eastern style, Grade I, Raleigh, Wake County, Yuppiecue | 17 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Short Sugar’s Pit Bar-B-Q

Posted on February 21, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

1328 S. Scales St., Reidsville, NC
336.342.7487
Short Sugar’s Website
(complete with lots of photos, a copy of the menu, etc.)
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C+
Porky Says: “I wish I’d known ye in your prime, Sug.”

Sticky Fingers
Like The Rolling Stones, Short Sugar’s is a true legend. And like The Stones, I am quite certain Short Sugar’s put on a much better live show back in the day. Now, like Mick Jagger’s lips and Keith Richard’s everything, Short Sugar’s is less of a sight to behold than in decades past and may be coasting on reputation.

Short Sugar’s is among the most storied of NC barbecue joints, from the tragic history that resulted in its great name to the fact that it still to this day offers curb service and a 1950s style atmosphere (yes, there even appear to be some vintage ’50s grease stains). There is much to like about Short Sugar’s. The bucolic setting in the heart of what was until recently serious tobacco country, as Reidsville’s history is closely tied to that of the American Tobacco Company. The impressive indoor wood pit, where the pork shoulders and hams are finished. The classic diner counter. The joint’s 60 years of history. Its reputation. The fact that the pork is hand-chopped to order. The unique sauce that many rave about. And on and on. But, in my humble opinion, the ‘que has a hard time matching the mystique. It seems like a classic case of the whole hog being less than the sum of the parts.

Beggar’s Banquet
I found the barbecue a bit bland, not exhibiting much depth of flavor. This makes sense based on what I ‘ve heard about their cooking method, which as I understand it now only uses the wood pit to finish the barbecue for the last few hours. It’s a shame that a joint with 60 years of tradition–and probably a handful of customers who have eaten there for all of these years–would switch to an electric cooker. Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Grade C, Lexington style, Reidsville, Rockingham County | 9 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Allen & Son Barbeque

Posted on February 16, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

Sign of the Shrine (photo by drinkerthinker from Creative Commons)

6203 Millhouse Rd., Chapel Hill, NC
919.942.7576
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: A+
Porky Says: “You can take me now, I’ve lived a good life.”

Preface: It’s no coincidence that we decided to make Allen & Son the subject of our first review. Years ago, Allen’s helped convince the Rib Rabbi and Porky LeSwine to worship at the temple of barbecue and it remains one of our favorite joints.

For The Doubters: Or Why You Shouldn’t Not GoYes, it has a Chapel Hill address. Yes, many Chapel Hill residents wouldn’t know a barbecue pit from a hole in the ground if Bon Appetit didn’t feel the need to explain it to them. Yes, the food is more expensive than most barbecue joints, even very good ones, and the prices keep going up. (Economics 101 teaches us that this is the law of supply and demand, and we are confident the invisible hand will take care of society’s best barbecue interests.) Yes, Allen’s probably gets a lot of press because the national media prefers to spend the night at the Carolina Inn in Chapel Hill than at the Econo Lodge in Lexington. But Allen & Son deserves every bit of the acclaim it has received; Keith Allen and his crew serve some of the best barbecue in North Carolina. And, at the risk of diving head-first into an empty pool of hyperbole, this means Allen’s serves some of the best barbecue in the world. Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Chapel Hill, Eastern style, Grade A, Lexington style, Orange County | 12 Comments »

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