Man v. Pork

Posted on September 4, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

In case you missed it, The Travel Channel’s MAN V. FOOD episode on Durham debuted Wednesday night, and included a stop at the Backyard BBQ Pit.  Whether or not you saw the show, check out the funny, spot-on pre-show critique over at Durham-based blog take the bull by the horns.  Among the blog’s insights: Durham is not the “Cradle of Cue,” as MAN V. FOOD’s promoters claim, and BBQ is chopped not “stirred.”  Unfortunately, if you missed the show (like I did), it does not appear that MAN V. FOOD’s website includes old episodes.  Maybe the venerable copyright thieves over at You Tube will come through…

Filed under: Hog Happenings | Tagged: , | 4 Comments »

A First Taste of Hogwash

Posted on August 28, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

At the beginning of July, I posted an interview with Sean Wilson, founder of Fullsteam Brewery, about the brewery’s Hogwash porter.  Not only was the interview thoroughly enjoyable, but Sean was kind enough to invite the Rib Rabbi and me to attend a recent “Thank ‘Cue” event at Fullsteam’s future location, a funky brick warehouse very near the old Durham Athletic Park of Bull Durham fame.

I am happy to report that, despite my initial skepticism that a porter would be too heavy to complement barbecue well,  Hogwash pairs well with ‘cue.  It is a refreshing, subtly hickory-smoked and easy to drink porter that makes good on its name’s promise of washing down hog.  I’m looking forward to Fullsteam’s opening toward the end of this year or early next year, and I’m already daydreaming about pairing Hogwash with samplings of my favorite Eastern- and Lexington-style barbecue.  Ah, beer and pork, what more could a BBQ Jew desire?

Filed under: Miscellaneous | Tagged: , , , | 3 Comments »

BBQ&A: Sean Wilson (aka Hogwash, The Beer with the Taste for ‘Cue)

Posted on July 1, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

working-image-small

[Note: Follow this link-Wilson BBQ&A-for an easier to read, .pdf version of the interview.]

Today’s post deals with two things near and dear to my heart (and mouth), barbecue and beer.  Several years ago Sean Wilson of Durham helped lead a well-orchestrated effort to overturn outdated laws in NC that prevented the sale of beer above 6% alcohol by volume (ABV).  Two and a half years after its early 2003 formation, the Pop the Cap group Sean ran succeeded in passing new legislation to allow the sale of beer up to 15% ABV.  This law overturned decades of conservative tradition in NC and opened up the state to a wealth of beers, including many classic American and international brews (double IPAs, various Belgian ales, and on and on).  For that, Sean and other Pop the Cappers, including the good folks at All About Beer magazine, will always have my thanks.  Having handled the NC legislature, Sean is now taking on another, even more entrenched NC tradition–sweet tea. 

Sean Wilson founded Fullsteam Brewery and set his sights on “plow-to-pint” brewing that features local flavors.  One of Fullsteam’s flagship beers is Hogwash, a brown porter made with hickory-smoked malts.  As its name implies, Hogwash is designed to wash down barbecue–its flavor is tailored to complement ‘cue.  It’s an interesting concept, so recently Sean and I sat down over a cold pint and a hot tray to talk beer and barbecue… Continue reading →

Filed under: BBQ & A | Tagged: , , , , , , | 4 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Carolina Q Dog

Posted on June 1, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

409 Blackwell Street, Durham, NC
919.687.6500
Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C+
Porky Says: “An inside the park heart attack.”

Baseball and Barbecue: Two Beautiful Traditions
I recently headed to the Durham Bulls Athletic Park (DBAP) in downtown Durham, NC to root for the hometown heroes.  But baseball was not the only thing on my mind.  A co-worker had told me about the “Carolina Q Dog” and, in the name of good journalism, I vowed to try it.   

The Carolina Q Dog is sold at the Dillard’s Bar-B-Q concession stand right behind home plate on the DBAP’s main concourse (actually, its only concourse).  Dillard’s is a Durham institution located just a few miles from the DBAP, and I will review the joint separately another time.  The Dillard’s ballpark concession stand offers a limited menu that features their ‘cue in plate and sandwich form, among other dishes.  The Carolina Q Dog is offered only at the ballpark and consists of a footlong hot dog smothered in chopped BBQ with a side of slaw.  It’s better than it sounds.  Or maybe it’s worse than it sounds, depending on your perspective.

I didn’t think it chopped pork on an all-beef dog sounded like a good combination, but it turned out to be pretty tasty.  The fact that Dillard’s barbecue is finely chopped and has mustard-tinged vinegar sauce (in the South Carolina tradition) is very helpful when paired with a hot dog.  Next time you go to a Bulls game and want to give your arteries a work out, try the Carolina Q Dog.  It’s a nice treat by ballpark BBQ standards.

Hot diggity dog!
Hot diggity dog!

Still, even though the Carolina Q Dog was pretty good, I doubt they’ll be changing the Take Me Out to the Ball Game lyrics anytime soon…
Take me out to the DBAP, Take me out with the crowd/Buy me a foot long with bar-b-q, I don’t care ’cause I’m the BBQ Jew/Let me root, root, root for the D-Bulls, If they don’t win it’s a shame/For it’s one, two, three strikes, you’re out, At the old… AAGH!! DOES ANYONE HAVE A DEFIBRILLATOR?!

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: , , , , | 6 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Bullock’s Bar B Cue

Posted on April 8, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

3330 Quebec Dr., Durham, NC
919.383.3211
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C
Porky Says: “Never mind the Bullock’s.”

Not Really a Barbecue Joint
I think I’d like Bullock’s more if it didn’t serve barbecue.

It’s not that Bullock’s barbecue is bad, but it seems like an afterthought on a huge menu that does a good job serving southern food from fried chicken to fish to ham, with all the sides you could ever want.  Bullock’s is a pretty good southern style restaurant that also serves so-so, Eastern-style electric-cooked barbecue (they long ago abandoned cooking over wood). The barbecue is pretty non-descript, standard fare for wood-free, Eastern-style ‘cue, though it is available either chopped or sliced, which adds some variety.   Frankly, I’m not sure what else to say about the barbecue, especially after seeing how Bullock’s attorneys have reacted to comments H. Kent Craig made about rumors regarding the source of Bullock’s barbecue. 

Family dining at Bullock's. From http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3321910552_25fd70ac3c.jpg
Bullock’s spacious dining room.  Picture taken from http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3321910552_25fd70ac3c.jpg

It’s A Family Affair
Bullock’s is a family-run business that draws a mixed crowd of Durham natives, Duke students who have likely never tasted barbecue anywhere else except for possibly the Original Q-Shack, and the occasional celebrity.  (The vintage 1980’s picture of Bono and U2 with the classic, underwhelmed caption “Band from Ireland” is far and away my personal favorite.). There is actually much to like about Bullock’s, especially the “family style” dinners where everyone in your dining party agrees to eat what amounts to a buffet brought to your table—bottomless bowls of barbecue, chicken, vegetables, etc. And the endless supply of sweet, soft hush puppies that accompanies every meal is hard to resist, even if it is a wee bit unnecessary.

Closing Thoughts
Bullock’s has probably helped spread the gospel of barbecue to tens of thousands of folks over the years, especially given the number of out of town visitors who find their way to Bullock’s through Duke or other connections.  Hopefully many of those folks have gone on to try some ‘cue from other joints that do more justice to the ‘cue NC has to offer.  Still, if you can manage your expectations, you shouldn’t be disappointed by the overall dining experience at Bullock’s.  I’ve always enjoyed my trips there because of the friendly atmosphere, the large and diverse crowd of diners, and the fact that Bullock’s really is a Durham institution.  As long as you don’t go to Bullock’s looking for a great plate of barbecue you’ll enjoy yourself.

For an interesting post on the history of Bullock’s Bar B Cue, see our pal at Endangered Durham’s post here.

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: , , , , | 6 Comments »

BBQ Meatloaf

Posted on February 19, 2009 by The Rib Rabbi

Unlike its evil twin gefilte fish, meatloaf symbolizes that old saw of the sum being greater than the parts.

And just like barbecue, making a meatloaf transforms somewhat inferior meat into deliciousness. In barbecue terms, the traditionally lesser cuts like shoulder and brisket, can be converted–by flame, time and love–into something that inspires blogs. Meatloaf morphs the detritus from your fridge into a new entity.

Recently, the two intersected, when I fed leftover barbecue into my meatloaf mix. In addition to the traditional ingredients like egg, bread crumbs and onions, I added barbecue from The Q Shack.

Now, this not a total slam on The Q Shack, which I consider convenient and passable, if you’re in the mood for something other than traditional NC barbecue. It’s just that we had a real excess of the stuff and you can only eat so many leftover sandwiches from the Durham gas cookers. (Allen & Son leftovers, on the other hand, just might be an oxymoron.)

The BBQ Loaf

The BBQ Loaf

The barbecue meatloaf worked out really well (see for yourself). Topped with some excess Q Shack sauce and bound together with potatoes, this seems like the perfect destination for mediocre barbecue.

While Eastern barbecue purists would turn their nose at the use of both tomatoes and tomato-based sauce, it was just that kind of party. Besides, who knew barbecue could double as comfort food?

Filed under: Cooking | Tagged: , | Leave a comment »

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