Documuttonary Film School

As you, dear readers, are well aware this website has a narrow-minded myopic laser-like focus on North Carolina’s pork barbecue culture.  Still, we cannot refrain from putting a plug in for a documentary film on another of America’s underappreciated forms of barbecue–Kentucky mutton.  Mutton is one of just a handful of distinct barbecue styles in the U.S., and without a doubt it is the most obscure of the styles.  A new (to us) documentary helps bring mutton the attention it deserves. (Disclaimer: I have not actually eaten mutton, so perhaps the film is bringing mutton attention it does not deserve.) 

Hmm...

Um, no...

According to its websiteMutton: The Movie “takes you on a magical journey to the northwestern corner of Kentucky (Owensboro to be exact) where the descendants of the Welsh who settled the banks of the Ohio River don’t count sheep, they barbecue them.”  Well put.   Mutton is an informative, entertaining documentary and clocks in under 20 minutes long, so you really have no excuse to not watch it.  Of course, we respectfully disagree with Owensboro, Kentucky’s claim to the title of “Bar-B-Q Capital of the World.”  Heck, the people of Owensboro can’t even spell barbecue right!  Still, in the interest of fostering good will among the barbecue-loving people of the world, we present this in-depth analysis of the common ground between mutton and NC pork barbecue:

  • Both mutton and NC barbecue are traditionally cooked over Hickory wood.
  • Both are sources of local pride and the products of hard work, sweat and tears beers.
  • Mutton is often cooked by Catholic churches as a fundraiser, while NC barbecue is a common part of fire department fundraisers.  Catholics and firefighters fear hellfire and fire, respectively, yet have no qualms about Continue reading

BBQ Jew’s View: Stephenson’s Bar-B-Q

11964 N.C. Highway 50 North, Willow Spring, NC
919.894.4530
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C
Porky Says: “Dude, where’s the wood?” [Editor’s note: it’s somewhere]

A good looking barbecue plate from Stephenson's.

Stephenson’s barbecue plate.

Stephenson’s has a long, proud history and is featured as one of 24 barbecue joints on the NC Barbecue Society’s exclusive Barbecue Trail (which lists only those joints that cook with wood and meet various other criteria).  Yet I was underwhelmed during a recent visit.  First of all, despite being listed a wood burner I saw no evidence of a wood pile  and the barbecue did not taste wood-cooked to me.  I wonder if Stephenson’s has switched from wood cooking, or perhaps they use charcoal instead of split wood and keep their charcoal inside.  Even if they do cook with wood and I somehow missed it, I simply did not think Stephenson’s ‘cue was particularly good. [Editor’s note: I’ve been told by reliable sources that they do indeed stick cook over wood!]

I found the barbecue a bit greasy, almost slimy even.  It was coarse-chopped (seemingly by hand) to a nice consistency, but lacked in flavor.  Stephenson’s almost straight vinegar sauce helped the flavor but did not save the ‘cue from mediocrity.  The sides, on the other hand, were quite good.  The coleslaw was lightly “mayo’d,” with quite a lot of added sugar (a bit more than I think slaw needs, actually) and generously flecked with pickle/relish.  The hush puppies were perfectly fried, fluffy golden brown spheres.  The barbecued potatoes were also good, with a classic Eastern-style tangyness to them.  In summary, I always judge a BBQ joint primarily Continue reading

Roanoke-Chowan Pork-Fest

Looking for a reason to visit northeastern North Carolina and chow on some pork this weekend?  Look no further.  This Saturday pay a visit to the small town of Murfreesboro for the annual Roanoke-Chowan Pork-Fest.  What is the Pork-Fest?  And why is it hyphenated?  Alas, this post answers just one of these burning questions.

Jimmy Gray wrote bbqjew.com to say, “The [Pork-Fest] cook-off  will be May 16th.  There will be 22 cookers.  The first 5 places will receive a cash prize and the first 2 places for Showmanship.  We have our event at the Brady C. Jefcoat Museum in Murfreesboro, N.C.  There are over 13,000 items in the museum.  We have the largest collection of butter churns, old wooden washing machines and flat irons in the United States.  There are 264 music boxes in 1 room.  We will have music all day, antique and muscle cars.  After the pigs are judged and prizes awarded, we will have a very delicious meal of BBQ with all trimmings.  The ticket price is $10 for the all day event.”

A barbecue cookoff, a chance to tour the world’s largest collection of butter churns, and even an appearance by the Piggly Wiggly Pig (something Mr. Gray failed to mention!).  Sadly, I have somewhere else to be on Saturday and won’t be able to attend this year, but I’d love to hear a report from anyone who finds themselves in Murfreesboro this weekend.  Bonus points if you send along a picture of yourself eating a BBQ sandwich while operating a wooden washing machine.

BBQ Jew’s View: Grady’s BBQ

3096 Arrington Bridge Road, Dudley, NC
919.735.7243
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: A+
Porky Says: “I can now die happy.”

A sneak peek inside the pearly gates.

A sneak peek inside the pearly gates.

I thought about leaving my review at this: go to Grady’s.  That would have been enough said, but the folks at Grady’s deserve a little more good (albeit virtual) ink.  As far as I am concerned, Grady’s is among an elite few of the best barbecue joints in the state.  Unfortunately, their off the beaten path location has kept them in relative obscurity, even though they’ve dished out terrific barbecue for more than 20 years and many well known joints can’t hold a pig’s wax candle to Grady’s pork.

Luckily, it's what's inside that counts.

Luckily, it's what's inside that counts.

To say Grady’s is unassuming at first glance is an understatement.  Let’s start with the location.  Grady’s is in the tiny town of Dudley, about 15 minutes south of downtown Goldsboro–a town featuring the well-known joints Wilber’s, Scott’s and McCall’s–and just a few hundred yards north of a road called Squirrel Ridge Drive.  The building itself (pictured above) could easily be missed were it not standing all by itself on a quiet stretch of windy road, and were it not for the prominent Continue reading

Carthage Buggy Festival (and BBQ Cook Off)

Looking for something to do this weekend and have a wholesome hankering for whole hog?  If so, be sure to check out the Carthage Buggy Festival, which starts off with a barbecue cooking contest on Friday evening.  The BBQ Cook Off benefits The Arc of Moore County, and is an officially sanctioned NC Pork Council event. 

According to the festival website, “Delivery of the pigs to each contestant will take place at about 10:00 p.m.  [Friday]. They cook all night and the following morning on-site judging by N.C. Pork Council certified judges begins at 8:00 a.m.  Following the on-site judging, local barbecue enthusiasts will put their palates to a blind taste test of all contestants’ barbecue.  On-site and blind scores will then be combined to determine the first, second, third and fourth place winners.”

Better yet, “The public is invited to come out to the park between 8:30 and 10:00 a.m. Saturday morning and taste free samples of each cooker’s pig and sauce.  This will be the only chance to taste differences between cookers.  Once the judging is complete the cooked and chopped barbecue will be combined and sold as sandwiches and in bulk…”  It’s great that Joe Public gets to taste the ‘cue before it’s all lumped together, and this sets Carthage’s event apart from some of the state’s larger barbecue festivals.

How to Find Good Barbecue

It’s not easy to accurately judge a book by its cover, but your friends at BBQ Jew are always willing to try.  Our goal is to prevent you from wasting too much of your valuable time–or too many points on your cholesterol level–eating mediocre barbecue.  You deserve better.  Below are our tips (commandments?) for separating the wheat from the chaff meat from the gristle when it comes to finding good barbecue joints.

Viva le wood!

Viva le wood!

WOOD IS GOOD
– If there is a wood pile outside it’s worth going inside. The wood pile may be tucked away in the back, it may be right up front, but it must be somewhere if they cook with it. Once you find the pile, check for signs that it has been used recently and isn’t just there for decoration (this trickery has been reported, though if the BBQ Jew was king such deception would be a criminal offense).

NEW IS OLD NEWS – Be very suspicious of a barbecue joint if the building it is located in was built less than 20 or so years ago. Sure, there are some good joints that challenge this rule of thumb, but a shiny new building is at best a honkin’ big red flag.

PARKING LOT PARADISE – Glance around the parking lot. Ideally, there will be a diverse mix of beat up pickup trucks, vans with commercial tags, compact cars, lawyer mobiles (Mercedes, BMW, etc.) and more. If all those different people think the ‘cue is worth eating, you probably will too. Continue reading

Ham & Yam Festival

Just a quick post to encourage you to check out the Ham & Yam Festival, which runs through late Sunday afternoon in downtown Smithfield.  Note that barbecue plates from the pig cooking contest will be on sale from 12:30 until 5:00 p.m. on Sunday.  Sorry we didn’t get this post up with more advance notice; the barbecue festivals snuck up on us this year.  We vow to do a better job of informing you, our loyal readers, of essential upcoming events in the future.  Until then, we ask that you forgive us our trespasses as we have forgiven those who abandon the almighty hickory wood.

Speaking of which, please forgive me for the below photo.  It has nothing whatsoever to do with the Ham & Yam Festival, but I took it last time I was in Smithfield and this seems like as good (or bad) an occasion as any to share it.

If you say so.

If you say so.

Head East Young Man

Looking for something pork-related to do this first weekend of May?  Head on down to Kinston, in the heart of Eastern-style barbecue country, to check out the 28th annual BBQ Festival on the Neuse and Wil King Hog Happening, which is perhaps the best named of our state’s several large barbecue events.  The festival begins tonight and continues through early afternoon on Saturday, with the most intense barbecue cooking going on Friday night and into Saturday morning.  Barbecue plates go on sale to the public on Saturday at 11 a.m., for those who need to know.

Learn more about the festival by reading this article (thanks to burgeoningfoodie for sending the link along), which features some enticing gems. My favorite is this bit of boasting: “We know eastern barbecue is better and we’re going to show these folks,” Jan Barwick of the Kinston-Lenoir County Chamber of Commerce said of the visitors from around North Carolina. “They just don’t know ours is better because they haven’t had good barbecue yet.”  Not exactly finely honed trash talk but it does the job.  So, Lexington fanatics, head on down to Kinston and tell Jan what you think of the ‘cue.

All Aboard the Oink Express

All aboard the Oink Express!

All aboard the Oink Express!

Awhile back we got a question from an out of state reader about where to find decent mail order barbecue.  We recommended King’s Oink Express, since King’s is the only joint we know of that offers such a service as part of their everyday business (we’ve heard of some other joints that will ship pork upon special request).  I am pleased to report that a friend of mine who lives in California stepped up to the (barbecue) plate  and decided to try the Oink Express.

My friend–he prefers to be known as Governor Schwarzenoinker
to give the proper gravitas to his comments–reports that his Oink Express order arrived quickly, still frozen in the styrofoam cooler and accompanied by clear reheating instructions (pictured above).  But how did the pork-in-a-box taste?  Continue reading

BBQ Jew’s View: Bullock’s Bar B Cue

3330 Quebec Dr., Durham, NC
919.383.3211
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C
Porky Says: “Never mind the Bullock’s.”

Not Really a Barbecue Joint
I think I’d like Bullock’s more if it didn’t serve barbecue.

It’s not that Bullock’s barbecue is bad, but it seems like an afterthought on a huge menu that does a good job serving southern food from fried chicken to fish to ham, with all the sides you could ever want.  Bullock’s is a pretty good southern style restaurant that also serves so-so, Eastern-style electric-cooked barbecue (they long ago abandoned cooking over wood). The barbecue is pretty non-descript, standard fare for wood-free, Eastern-style ‘cue, though it is available either chopped or sliced, which adds some variety.   Frankly, I’m not sure what else to say about the barbecue, especially after seeing how Bullock’s attorneys have reacted to comments H. Kent Craig made about rumors regarding the source of Bullock’s barbecue. 

Family dining at Bullock's.  From http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3321910552_25fd70ac3c.jpg
Bullock’s spacious dining room.  Picture taken from http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3597/3321910552_25fd70ac3c.jpg

It’s A Family Affair
Bullock’s is a family-run business that draws a mixed crowd of Durham natives, Duke students who have likely never tasted barbecue anywhere else except for possibly the Original Q-Shack, and the occasional celebrity.  (The vintage 1980’s picture of Bono and U2 with the classic, underwhelmed caption “Band from Ireland” is far and away my personal favorite.). There is actually much to like about Bullock’s, especially the “family style” dinners where everyone in your dining party agrees to eat what amounts to a buffet brought to your table—bottomless bowls of barbecue, chicken, vegetables, etc. And the endless supply of sweet, soft hush puppies that accompanies every meal is hard to resist, even if it is a wee bit unnecessary.

Closing Thoughts
Bullock’s has probably helped spread the gospel of barbecue to tens of thousands of folks over the years, especially given the number of out of town visitors who find their way to Bullock’s through Duke or other connections.  Hopefully many of those folks have gone on to try some ‘cue from other joints that do more justice to the ‘cue NC has to offer.  Still, if you can manage your expectations, you shouldn’t be disappointed by the overall dining experience at Bullock’s.  I’ve always enjoyed my trips there because of the friendly atmosphere, the large and diverse crowd of diners, and the fact that Bullock’s really is a Durham institution.  As long as you don’t go to Bullock’s looking for a great plate of barbecue you’ll enjoy yourself.

For an interesting post on the history of Bullock’s Bar B Cue, see our pal at Endangered Durham’s post here.