Labor Day Feature: Life in the Pits with Brandon Cook

Posted on September 7, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

Hi Ho, Hi Ho, It’s Off for Pork We Go
A few weeks ago the Rib Rabbi and I headed west down Interstate 85 to Lexington, where we rendezvoused with a Winston-Salem Journal reporter for dinner and an interview.  I’d been to Cook’s BBQ a couple of times before, loved their food, and figured it would be the perfect off-the-beaten path location to meet.  If the reporter found her way to this hidden gem of a restaurant several miles south of Lexington, then I figured she could be trusted to report faithfully on the divine swine.  Well, the reporter got lost somewhere on the way to Cook’s BBQ and showed up a little bit late for dinner (she did show up and did apologize so she passed my test).  Lucky for the Rib Rabbi and me, while we waited on our dinner date to arrive pitmaster Brandon Cook  gave us a thorough tour of the operation. 

Zen and the Art of Barbecue
I’d wanted to talk to Brandon ever since reading an interview with him in Holy Smoke, in which he described the way-out-of-the-way location of Cook’s BBQ as follows: “Our location is a very nice spot.  Nobody drops in accidentally; if you’re coming here, this is your destination.”  The quote’s half-Zen, half-mad scientist logic struck a chord with me.  I knew I’d like anybody who thought his restaurant’s location was perfect because nobody could find the place without knowing it was there.  And maybe Brandon was right about the location, as Cook’s BBQ was doing brisk business when we were there.  In fact, it had undergone a major expansion since the last time I’d visited a couple years back.  But it still serves delicious traditional NC barbecue, as well as not-so-traditional-for-NC Texas-style beef brisket.

Beef in Lexington?! It's okay, remain calm...

Beef brisket in Lexington?! It's okay, try to remain calm...

Cook’s Cook Can Cook
Brandon Cook is a fairly young man, but he works the pit like he’s been doing it for many decades.  Brandon grew up in the restaurant business–his dad, Doug, used to own Cook’s BBQ and now owns another joint in town–and learned to work a pit at an early age.  He has been cooking ever since.  Better yet, while scores of other pitmasters (including, not Continue reading →

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A First Taste of Hogwash

Posted on August 28, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

At the beginning of July, I posted an interview with Sean Wilson, founder of Fullsteam Brewery, about the brewery’s Hogwash porter.  Not only was the interview thoroughly enjoyable, but Sean was kind enough to invite the Rib Rabbi and me to attend a recent “Thank ‘Cue” event at Fullsteam’s future location, a funky brick warehouse very near the old Durham Athletic Park of Bull Durham fame.

I am happy to report that, despite my initial skepticism that a porter would be too heavy to complement barbecue well,  Hogwash pairs well with ‘cue.  It is a refreshing, subtly hickory-smoked and easy to drink porter that makes good on its name’s promise of washing down hog.  I’m looking forward to Fullsteam’s opening toward the end of this year or early next year, and I’m already daydreaming about pairing Hogwash with samplings of my favorite Eastern- and Lexington-style barbecue.  Ah, beer and pork, what more could a BBQ Jew desire?

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BBQ Jew’s View: Cook’s BBQ

Posted on August 12, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

366 Valiant Drive, Lexington, NC
336.798.1928
No website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: A-
Porky Says: “My only beef with Cook’s is brisket.” 

You're not lost if you've found this sign

You're not lost if you've found this sign

“Right Turn on Rockcrusher Road”
I don’t own a GPS unit; I’m early-2000s-old-fashioned and rely on Mapquest.  Still, I can imagine questioning the sanity of the computerized lady were she to instruct me to turn off Highway 8 and onto Rockcrusher Road, as visitors to Cook’s BBQ must do. But the drive to Cook’s is well worth it, as Cook’s serves some of the best barbecue in a town that serves some of the best barbecue in the state. 

I first visited Cook’s about seven years ago, when it had a small but loyal following among Lexington area diners.  At that time the restaurant was a modest-looking, modest-sized wood building built by founder Doug Cook with timber he milled himself.  Maybe it was seeing the humble wooden building after driving down a road I thought surely led to nowhere, or maybe it was the smoky aroma, or maybe it was just the quality of the food.  Whatever it was, my first meal at Cook’s seven years ago was magnificent.  I had only found my way back once since then, and when I pulled into the driveway this time and saw a large expansion on the original building my heart sank a bit.  But the aroma of hickory-smoked pork still hung thick in the air. 

 

Don’t Fear the Brisket
Although my meal at Cook’s seemed a little less magnificent than my memories of my first visit, the ‘cue still rates high.  The pork is tender and cooked to perfection, with a distinct wood-smoked flavor from the 10 or so hours the shoulders cook slow-and-low over the hickory coals.  Pitmaster Brandon Cook, the son of Cook’s BBQ’s founder (who now owns Backcountry Barbecue across town), firmly believes that cooking over wood is the only way to make barbecue. 

Not much has changed to this corner of the building over the years

Little has changed to this corner of the building over the years.

Cook’s BBQ doesn’t heed all sacred barbecue traditions.  Beef brisket earns a place on a almost distressingly diverse Continue reading →

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Art, Religion & Barbecue

Posted on August 3, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

We recently received an email from Joel Haas of Raleigh, who kindly agreed to let us share excerpts from his witty message.  Joel’s email begins as follows: “I am very, very grateful that my Jewish grandfather who immigrated to NC in 1900 didn’t take his religion seriously and married a Methodist girl, or I, a NC born and bred back sliding screaming left wing Episcopalian, would not be enjoying the joys of Q.”  How’s that for an opening salvo?

Joel’s email continues, “My true religion is ultra orthodox right wing don’t even talk-to-me-about-using-gas hickory-smoked Eastern NC Q.  I am in a mixed marriage since my wife is from near Lexington and Salisbury NC.”  Since Mrs. Porky LeSwine is from Illinois, thankfully I do not have to deal with such contentious debates at my home.  After all, Illinois produces corn and corn is enjoyed in cornmeal form throughout both of North Carolina’s regional barbecue empires.  Of course, Mrs. LeSwine has never taken a shine to barbecue, so not all is well at my home.

Functional pig art by Joel Haas

Functional pig art by Joel Haas

Back to Joel.  In addition to being a left-wing Episcopalian and a right-wing Hickory Thumper, he is a professional sculptor.  Although he does not Continue reading →

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Learn to Cook ‘Cue

Posted on July 24, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

The NC BBQ Society is offering a great, albeit pricey, opportunity to learn to cook real NC barbecue.  See the Raleigh News & Observer’s food blog for details.  Note that registration for the three-day class ends August 15.  As for the event itself, suffice it to say that one of the instructors is Steve Grady of Grady’s BBQ, one of the best barbecue joints in the state.  Oh, and the event is being held in NC’s beautiful Outer Banks.  If you attend, please give me a full report.  Better yet, give me $500 so I can attend myself.  Deal?

The woodpile behind Grady's tells you all you need to know

The pit and woodpile behind Grady's tell you all you need to know.

Filed under: Cooking | Tagged: , , , | 5 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Blue Mist Bar-B-Q

Posted on July 8, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

3409 Highway 64 East, Asheboro, NC
336.625.3980
No website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: B
Porky Says: “Lions and tigers and pigs, oh my!”

Zoo and ‘Cue
What better way to spend a summer weekend with family and friends than a trip to the North Carolina Zoo?  Sure, it’s kind of in the middle of nowhere.  And the admission price is sort of steep.  And it’s hotter than heck.  And the animals stink when it’s so hot. But it’s still fun, galdarnit.  Plus, the zoo is just a few minutes away from Blue Mist Bar-B-Q, and what better way to finish a day of animal viewing than eating one?

Old timers enjoying Blue Mist

Old timers enjoying Blue Mist

Get Your Kicks on Route 64
Blue Mist Bar-B-Q has been around since 1948 and occupies a fairly large Continue reading →

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BBQ&A: Sean Wilson (aka Hogwash, The Beer with the Taste for ‘Cue)

Posted on July 1, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

working-image-small

[Note: Follow this link-Wilson BBQ&A-for an easier to read, .pdf version of the interview.]

Today’s post deals with two things near and dear to my heart (and mouth), barbecue and beer.  Several years ago Sean Wilson of Durham helped lead a well-orchestrated effort to overturn outdated laws in NC that prevented the sale of beer above 6% alcohol by volume (ABV).  Two and a half years after its early 2003 formation, the Pop the Cap group Sean ran succeeded in passing new legislation to allow the sale of beer up to 15% ABV.  This law overturned decades of conservative tradition in NC and opened up the state to a wealth of beers, including many classic American and international brews (double IPAs, various Belgian ales, and on and on).  For that, Sean and other Pop the Cappers, including the good folks at All About Beer magazine, will always have my thanks.  Having handled the NC legislature, Sean is now taking on another, even more entrenched NC tradition–sweet tea. 

Sean Wilson founded Fullsteam Brewery and set his sights on “plow-to-pint” brewing that features local flavors.  One of Fullsteam’s flagship beers is Hogwash, a brown porter made with hickory-smoked malts.  As its name implies, Hogwash is designed to wash down barbecue–its flavor is tailored to complement ‘cue.  It’s an interesting concept, so recently Sean and I sat down over a cold pint and a hot tray to talk beer and barbecue… Continue reading →

Filed under: BBQ & A | Tagged: , , , , , , | 4 Comments »

Documuttonary Film School

Posted on June 10, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

As you, dear readers, are well aware this website has a narrow-minded myopic laser-like focus on North Carolina’s pork barbecue culture.  Still, we cannot refrain from putting a plug in for a documentary film on another of America’s underappreciated forms of barbecue–Kentucky mutton.  Mutton is one of just a handful of distinct barbecue styles in the U.S., and without a doubt it is the most obscure of the styles.  A new (to us) documentary helps bring mutton the attention it deserves. (Disclaimer: I have not actually eaten mutton, so perhaps the film is bringing mutton attention it does not deserve.) 

Hmm...

Um, no...

According to its website, Mutton: The Movie “takes you on a magical journey to the northwestern corner of Kentucky (Owensboro to be exact) where the descendants of the Welsh who settled the banks of the Ohio River don’t count sheep, they barbecue them.”  Well put.   Mutton is an informative, entertaining documentary and clocks in under 20 minutes long, so you really have no excuse to not watch it.  Of course, we respectfully disagree with Owensboro, Kentucky’s claim to the title of “Bar-B-Q Capital of the World.”  Heck, the people of Owensboro can’t even spell barbecue right!  Still, in the interest of fostering good will among the barbecue-loving people of the world, we present this in-depth analysis of the common ground between mutton and NC pork barbecue:

  • Both mutton and NC barbecue are traditionally cooked over Hickory wood.
  • Both are sources of local pride and the products of hard work, sweat and tears beers.
  • Mutton is often cooked by Catholic churches as a fundraiser, while NC barbecue is a common part of fire department fundraisers.  Catholics and firefighters fear hellfire and fire, respectively, yet have no qualms about Continue reading →

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BBQ Jew’s View: Stephenson’s Bar-B-Q

Posted on June 8, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

11964 N.C. Highway 50 North, Willow Spring, NC
919.894.4530
No Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C
Porky Says: “Dude, where’s the wood?” [Editor’s note: it’s somewhere]

A good looking barbecue plate from Stephenson's.

Stephenson’s barbecue plate.

Stephenson’s has a long, proud history and is featured as one of 24 barbecue joints on the NC Barbecue Society’s exclusive Barbecue Trail (which lists only those joints that cook with wood and meet various other criteria).  Yet I was underwhelmed during a recent visit.  First of all, despite being listed a wood burner I saw no evidence of a wood pile  and the barbecue did not taste wood-cooked to me.  I wonder if Stephenson’s has switched from wood cooking, or perhaps they use charcoal instead of split wood and keep their charcoal inside.  Even if they do cook with wood and I somehow missed it, I simply did not think Stephenson’s ‘cue was particularly good. [Editor’s note: I’ve been told by reliable sources that they do indeed stick cook over wood!]

I found the barbecue a bit greasy, almost slimy even.  It was coarse-chopped (seemingly by hand) to a nice consistency, but lacked in flavor.  Stephenson’s almost straight vinegar sauce helped the flavor but did not save the ‘cue from mediocrity.  The sides, on the other hand, were quite good.  The coleslaw was lightly “mayo’d,” with quite a lot of added sugar (a bit more than I think slaw needs, actually) and generously flecked with pickle/relish.  The hush puppies were perfectly fried, fluffy golden brown spheres.  The barbecued potatoes were also good, with a classic Eastern-style tangyness to them.  In summary, I always judge a BBQ joint primarily Continue reading →

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BBQ Jew’s View: Stamey’s

Posted on May 27, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

2206 High Point Road, Greensboro, NC (2nd location here)
336.299.9888
Stamey’s Website
BBQ Jew’s Grade: A-
Porky Says: “Deserves it’s fame.”

Just possibly the classiest sign in all of NC BBQ land.

Just possibly the classiest looking sign in all of NC BBQ land.

Location, Location, Location
Even if Stamey’s food was bad (and Lord knows it ain’t), I’d have to give them plenty of credit.  The members of the Stamey family are legends of NC barbecue, and smart businessmen to boot.  Their grand, lodge-style building right across the street from the Greensboro Coliseum, the site of dozens of ACC Tournaments over the past several decades, is evidence of that.  What better place to sell barbecue, and to spread your reputation, than across the street from a huge arena that attracts hoardes of hungry hoops fans from across the state and beyond?  The fact that the Coliseum opened six years after Stamey’s did shows either that the Stamey family was a bit lucky or they were really good businessmen. 

C. Warner Stamey, the founder of Stamey’s and one of the godfathers of NC barbecue (heck, he even brought the hush Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: , , , , | 6 Comments »

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