Learn to Cook ‘Cue

The NC BBQ Society is offering a great, albeit pricey, opportunity to learn to cook real NC barbecue.  See the Raleigh News & Observer’s food blog for details.  Note that registration for the three-day class ends August 15.  As for the event itself, suffice it to say that one of the instructors is Steve Grady of Grady’s BBQ, one of the best barbecue joints in the state.  Oh, and the event is being held in NC’s beautiful Outer Banks.  If you attend, please give me a full report.  Better yet, give me $500 so I can attend myself.  Deal?

The woodpile behind Grady's tells you all you need to know

The pit and woodpile behind Grady's tell you all you need to know.

ABCs of DIY BBQ

The one on the right had some dry rub, hence the blackened look

The one on the right had some dry rub, hence the blackened look (honest).

There’s a mystique around barbecue that it’s a skilled craft best to leave to the pros, it requires all day, you need a pit or a pig cooker to make it right, and so on.  Though these ideas have some truth to them, they shouldn’t dissuade you from cooking your own ‘cue once in awhile.  In fact, you really should cook your own ‘cue.  As they say, give a man directions to a BBQ joint and he’ll eat for a day, but teach a man to barbecue and he’ll eat for a lifetime (or at least until he burns his house down).

Cooking passable barbecue is really not that difficult.  Just block off five hours or so, grab a beer, call up a friend, gather at least one bag of charcoal (not instant light) plus a charcoal grill, round up a meat thermometer and ideally an oven thermometer to leave in the grill, and make sure you have some hickory chips on hand.  Now all you need is a Boston Butt or two and some salt.  If you’re making your own sauce/dip, you’ll also need some cider vinegar and pepper flakes, if you are an Eastern-style minimalist and a little ketchup if you are into the Lexington lifestyle.  Or you can just buy some Scott’s or other NC barbecue sauce at your local grocery store.  Here’s how my buddy and I prepared ‘cue a few weeks ago:

  • Start with a 4 to 5 lb Boston Butt (which is the top piece of a pork shoulder and is commonly available at grocery stores, at least in this part of the world) or a larger one if you have extra time and are patient while it cooks.  Get two if you have the room on the grill–no point spending 4+ hours cooking a half-empty grill. 
  • The night before cooking be sure to rub salt onto the pork.  As the authors of Holy Smoke write, “if you’re the type who turned in extended bibliographies with your middle-school papers, you might want to ‘brine’ the cut by soaking it in salt water overnight.”  They recommend a tablespoon of table salt in a pint of water for each butt.  Either way, on the day of your barbecuing, bring the butt to room temperature for half an hour before cooking and rub a little more salt on the meat.  Throw some hickory chips in water to let them soak while you prepare the grill.
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Pesach Special: A Matzoh ‘Cue Sandwich from New England

A buddy of mine, let’s call him The Jewish Gentile, sent me an email a couple of days ago that was too good not to share on this website.  TJG wrote, “I’m keeping Passover this year, but I really wanted a pulled pork sandwich. So I went to Blue Ribbon BBQ in Arlington, MA and got the North Carolina Pulled Pork Platter. Then I made myself this sandwich (see attached photo). And it was delicious.” 

Far be it from me, a much less observant Jew than TJG despite my bloodlines, to question whether he was abiding by the letter but not the spirit of Passover laws when he indulged in this multi-cultural treat (I’ll leave that discussion to him and his wife).  And let’s leave aside that the barbecue in between the matzoh was purchased in Massachusetts (I’ll leave that discussion to him and G-d).  The important thing is that TJG was inspired by the divine, acted on that inspiration, and documented his work the old fashioned way–with the digital photograph shown below.

A Passover delight.

A Passover delight.

“BBQ” Chicken

It Was A Dark and Stormy Night
No, really, it was.  It was a cold, rainy night in mid-March when I found myself in a predicament.  I was craving ‘cue, my wife was 900 miles away, my daughter was asleep for the night in her crib, and I had some near-expired boneless, skinless chicken breast in the fridge.  What was a BBQ Jew to do? 

Desperate Times Call for Desperate Measures
I opened the fridge and took out the chicken.  Next, I opened the pantry where by fate (or mispent divine intervention?) I spotted a half-empty bottle of Eastern-style BBQ sauce.   Problem solved.  And then one more pantry discovery: canned collards waiting patiently but hopelessly to be eaten by my vegetable-averse daughter.  A pseudo-BBQ plate was emerging (alas, sans hush puppies).  I doused the chicken in the BBQ sauce and baked it in the oven; no need to wood cook faux ‘cue, after all.  Once cooked, I chopped the sad-looking bird meat up to resemble barbecue as best it could and drenched it with more sauce.  There was no turning back now.

Moral of the Story
There may be a reason chopped chicken breast with barbecue sauce is not a staple of menus across North Carolina.  Most likely because it has no flavor.  (Interestingly, turkey barbecue is served at some NC restaurants, or so I’ve been told.)  Oh well, at least the chickens of North Carolina can sleep a little easier knowing they are no replacement for hog…

The End.

Tastes as good as it looks, but that's not saying much

Tastes as good as it looks, but that's not saying much

BBQ Meatloaf

Unlike its evil twin gefilte fish, meatloaf symbolizes that old saw of the sum being greater than the parts.

And just like barbecue, making a meatloaf transforms somewhat inferior meat into deliciousness. In barbecue terms, the traditionally lesser cuts like shoulder and brisket, can be converted–by flame, time and love–into something that inspires blogs. Meatloaf morphs the detritus from your fridge into a new entity.

Recently, the two intersected, when I fed leftover barbecue into my meatloaf mix. In addition to the traditional ingredients like egg, bread crumbs and onions, I added barbecue from The Q Shack.

Now, this not a total slam on The Q Shack, which I consider convenient and passable, if you’re in the mood for something other than traditional NC barbecue. It’s just that we had a real excess of the stuff and you can only eat so many leftover sandwiches from the Durham gas cookers. (Allen & Son leftovers, on the other hand, just might be an oxymoron.)

The BBQ Loaf

The BBQ Loaf

The barbecue meatloaf worked out really well (see for yourself). Topped with some excess Q Shack sauce and bound together with potatoes, this seems like the perfect destination for mediocre barbecue.

While Eastern barbecue purists would turn their nose at the use of both tomatoes and tomato-based sauce, it was just that kind of party. Besides, who knew barbecue could double as comfort food?