Restaurants & Reviews | BBQ Jew

John Wayne’s Barbecue Riding Into the Sunset

Posted on February 22, 2010 by Porky LeSwine

Sad news from the heart (or at least one of the kidneys) of North Carolina barbecue country. John Wayne’s Barbecue in Lexington is going out of business today after more than 25 years of serving up ‘cue, BBQ chicken, and much more. See the full story in The Dispatch or on the WFMY News website.

The Dispatch article notes that John Wayne’s is one of seven restaurants that sponsors the annual Barbecue Festival. It will be interesting to see if another restaurant steps in to fill the void.

I never had the pleasure of dining at John Wayne’s so I can’t comment on how much of a loss this is for barbetourists like me, but it sure is a sign of the times. It always seemed like barbecue joints in Lexington succeeded no matter what. The town has 20-some joints despite a population of just a shade over 20,000. Given how hard hit the economy of the Lexington area has been over the years, dating back well before the current recession, it’s a wonder more joints haven’t closed their doors. Tim Myers, the owner of John Wayne’s, says business is down about 30% from mid-2008. Let’s hope John Wayne’s loyal customers find a new local joint to support.

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Davidson County, Lexington, Lexington style, Signs of aporkalypse | 1 Comment »

Newsflash: Jason Grill & BBQ

Posted on January 29, 2010 by Porky LeSwine

A tip of the snout to John Shelton Reed, who alerted me to a relative newcomer to the Eastern NC barbecue scene: Jason Grill & BBQ, a traditional wood-burning shack of a barbecue joint that looks like it is from another era. John has already agreed to give me a full report and pictures when he visits Jason’s, so I’ll share his comments with you soon. In the meantime, check out the pictures and very positive reviews on Chowhound and at the NC Folklife website.

Jason’s looks like the type of place I dream of “discovering” when I travel down the backroads of NC, so rest assured I’ll visit soon. Readers, please chime in if you’ve been there and can confirm it is the holy grail the reviews make it out to be.

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Eastern style, Greene County, Jason, Wood-cooked | 4 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Byrd’s Barbecue

Posted on January 25, 2010 by Porky LeSwine

2816 Cheek Road, Durham, NC
919.530.1839
No Website
Hours: Mon-Fri 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C
Porky Says: “Noah’s Temple didn’t make me a believer.”

“Worth Your Time to Find”
I’m embarassed to admit that I first heard of Byrd’s Barbecue fewer than 6 months ago. Byrd’s–with the motto “Worth Your Time to Find” etched onto its rooftop sign–is located in Durham within 20 minutes of my house. And it was founded over 50 years ago. (According to a recent News & Observer article, Noah and Michelle Temple bought Byrd’s in 2005. Noah used to work at Danny’s Bar-B-Que in Cary, which we’ve yet to visit but have poked fun at.) How could I have not know about Byrd’s sooner? And was it worth my time to find after all these years living in the dark?

I still can’t figure out the answer to the first question, but maybe it has something to do with the answer to the second one: No. Although it is a decent enough place, Byrd’s is nothing special. It’s one of hundreds–or thousands–of mediocre barbecue joints in NC that long ago took the cheaper, easier path and stopped cooking over wood, in the process sacrificing quality, flavor and tradition.

Looks Like the Real Deal,
If you choose to ignore the propane tank that looms behind the building (which, of course, you should not), Byrd’s has the look of a gem of a BBQ joint. Located just outside the city limits, it occupies a rural setting that is appropriate to good ‘cue. The modest wood frame building looks the part too. And the parking lot welcomed a steady stream of Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Durham, Durham County, Eastern style, Gas/electric-cooked, Grade C, Lexington style | 3 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Prissy Polly’s

Posted on January 11, 2010 by Porky LeSwine

729 Highway 66 South, Kernersville, NC
336.993.5045
Website
Hours: Mon-Sat 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C+
Porky Says: “Polly has an identity crisis.”

Prissy Polly's: The view from my table

Pollyanna
With a great name like Prissy Polly’s, which made it into my barbecue joint name hall of fame, it’s tempting to be Pollyannaish about the quality of the barbecue. The fact that the restaurant is named after the founder’s mother makes it even better. But despite the great name, Polly’s suffers from an identity crisis. And, leaving the name aside, the food they serve is just okay.

Trying to Do Too Much
Instead of focusing on preparing one style of barbecue well, which is a difficult enough task, Polly’s tries to serve both Eastern- and Lexington-style ‘cue and does neither especially well. According to their own website:

“Originally Prissy Polly’s served only Eastern-style barbecue. This caused a bit of consternation among some of the local folks, who were accustomed to Lexington-style barbecue. To please the taste of those who preferred Lexington-style, Prissy Polly’s began to offer both styles of barbecue.”

I have to give Polly’s a lot of credit for being bold enough to start an Eastern-style BBQ joint in the heart of Lexington-style territory. And the Eastern-style ‘cue they serve is definitely the better of the types. I can’t really blame Polly’s for caving to local preferences either. Judging by the fact that they have stayed in business for 18 years and have a sparkling, large restaurant, adding Lexington-style ‘cue to the menu was the right decision. I simply don’t think their Lexington-style ‘cue is particularly good.

One, Two, Three Types of ‘Cue
Since Polly’s started out serving Eastern-style barbecue, let’s focus on that first. The biggest problem with Polly’s Eastern-style ‘cue is that it is not cooked over wood and the lack of care shows in a lack of flavor. Sadly, Polly has plenty of company in both the east and the west in terms of not using wood, but that doesn’t excuse them. Leaving that aside, Polly’s Eastern-style BBQ is moist and has decent flavor, which is enhanced by a slightly too salty but quite good vinegar/pepper sauce that accompanies it, though it appears to be machine chopped and is a bit mushy. I’d probably give their Eastern-style ‘cue a B- if I were grading it alone. Polly’s Lexington-style barbecue fares worse.

Polly’s actually offers two types of Lexington-style ‘cue. (Pay close attention, this gets a bit confusing.) Polly’s original Lexington-style BBQ is called “Original Lexington,” and they have served it for years. It features a rather thick, sweet dip that has as much in common with KC Masterpiece or Kraft as it does with traditional NC style sauces. Recently Polly’s added another Lexington-style dip option, this one called “Traditional Lexington.” The dip used for the newer traditional version is significantly better than the original recipe, as it is much thinner and more vinegar-based, though it is still too sweet for my palate. The Lexington-style ‘cue was too heavily sauced in the kitchen and needed no added dip at the table.

First course: Eastern-style

Second course: Lexington-style

Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Eastern style, Forsyth County, Gas/electric-cooked, Grade C, Kernersville, Lexington style | 5 Comments »

Allen’s Update Part II

Posted on January 1, 2010 by The Rib Rabbi

Happy ‘Cue Year! And what better way to start 2010 than by talking about one of our favorites–the original Allen & Son.

You may recall Porky’s post from the previous decade lamenting two changes at Allen and Son–cost and cole slaw. The price increase was indisputable, but the cole question was downright subjective.

Given the special place Keith Allen, slaw and Keith Allen’s slaw hold in this BBQ Jew’s gullet, the only question was when I’d head to Orange County to see for myself. My partner in pork wanted to get a second taste, so Porky and I lunched at Casa Allen.

The infamous cole slaw

I got a side order of slaw to go with my barbecue sandwich to get an unadulterated taste and my first reaction was that it was a tiny bit different. But not due to more mayo, as Porky had suspected. It just tasted a bit different than I remembered. But after a few bites, those concerns washed away and I chalked up my take to the placebo effect.

Still, like true ‘cue hounds, we had to research it a bit further. I asked our waitress if they’d changed anything about the slaw and she said they hadn’t. Later, Porky asked a long-serving waitress the same question, but in this way: “Excuse me, I know you’ve worked here awhile. Is the coleslaw creamier than it used to be or am I losing my mind?”

The waitress, in a sense, called him crazy: “It’s the same. It’s still made by the same man.” We both got a chuckle out of that.

As for the price change, I’ll echo Porky’s sentiment in saying: While it doesn’t exactly put a smile on my punim, I understand. I’m sure the cost of ingredients’ cost has gone up, even if it’s a very short list. After all, I’m sure swine is more expensive after the Aporkalypse.

One thing you can’t blame the price increase on is a drop in business. It was packed the day we visited! That’s probably because Allen’s aficionados, like myself, are OK with paying a bit more for a barbecue plate if it means Allen and Son keep cooking ‘cue the right way.

May your 2010 be filled with good health, good cheer (and Cheerwine) and good barbecue.

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: BBQ-related foods | 2 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Lexington Barbecue #1

Posted on December 30, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

10 US Hwy 29-70 South (I-85 Business Loop), Lexington, NC
704.249.9814
No Website
Hours: Mon – Sat 10 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
BBQ Jew’s Grade: A+
Porky Says: “This Monk serves heaven on earth.”

The Honeymonk
Whichever name you call it by–Lexington Barbecue #1,Lexington #1, Monk’s place, Monk’s, or The Honeymonk–this joint is absolutely one of the best in the state. I’ve been here a half dozen times or so over a period of several years and the barbecue and sides have been superb every time. Wayne Monk, his family, and the other employees who work at Lexington #1 run an amazingly efficient restaurant. They crank out ‘cue and all the fixings in high volume without sacrificing quality one bit. Whether you show up when the line is out the door, such as during the annual Barbecue Festival, or on a slow day at an off hour, Monk & company will dish you out some of the best ‘cue known to man, woman, or child.

In lieu of a full review of Lexington #1, I am going to defer to the Michael Stern of Roadfood fame on this one. See Stern’s recent review of Lexington #1 from his Roadfood.com website. Stern is one of the nation’s premier food writers and his website and books are well worth reading if you’ve yet to discover them. All I’ll add to Stern’s recent review of Lexington #1 is that some reason the draft Cheerwine tastes extra good there… especially when served to you by Wayne Monk himself at one of the counter stools. Add it to your bucket list today. And then get off your duff and check it off the list tomorrow.

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Davidson County, Grade A, Lexington, Lexington style, Wood-cooked | 12 Comments »

Guest Post: Brookwood Farms Carolina Pit BBQ

Posted on December 11, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

[BBQ Jew’s note: Today’s post was written by Holy Smoke author and intrepid airplane passenger/swine taster John Shelton Reed.]

Yes. I know that both Porky LeSwine and H. Kent Craig have knocked Brookwood Farms grocery store barbecue, but when Dale and I found ourselves in the Delta terminal at RDU, waiting for a noon flight that served no lunch, we weighed the options and went for the stand that says “Brookwood Farms Carolina Pit BBQ,” and I’m here to tell you about it. (By the way, I gather that they’re also in the Charlotte airport.)

First, let me say that, to my mind, Brookwood is missing a great opportunity to educate outlanders, the way the Salt Lick outpost in the Austin airport introduces folks to the Texas product. I guess they’ve done the numbers, though, and decided that catering to travelers whose ideas of barbecue vary wildly requires them to take what I’ve come to think of as the “International House of Barbecue” approach: some of this, some of that, something for everyone, none of it great, but all of it, I guess, OK. For our part, we passed up the “Santa Maria tri-tip,” the barbecued chicken, and barbecued turkey, and went for the barbecue – that is, for the pork. Here the choice comes down to a $7.00 sandwich or a $10.00 plate. (Yes, those prices are steep, but this is airport food, after all.)

We decided to split a plate, which comes with hushpuppies and a choice of two side dishes. Since slaw and Brunswick stew were on offer, naturally those had to be the sides. Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Durham, Durham County, Raleigh, Wake County, Wood-cooked | 6 Comments »

BBQ Jew’s View: Mr. Barbecue

Posted on December 9, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

1381 Peters Creek Parkway, Winston-Salem, NC
336.725.7827
No Website
2nd location at 5954 University Parkway in Winston-Salem
BBQ Jew’s Grade: B
Porky Says: “No mas tortillas, por favor, Señor Barbecue.”

The most elaborate barbecue sign in NC?

Fast Food Name, Slow-Cooked Taste
The generic “Mr. Barbecue” name sure didn’t make me confident about the food. And the chain restaurant vibe–flat screen TVs on the walls, fancy sign out front, 2nd location not far away, decor of the restaurant–made me even more wary. But the large woodpile outside and the smell of grease hitting hot hickory coals gave me all the motivation I needed to head toward the entrance. Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Forsyth County, Grade B, Winston-Salem, Wood-cooked | Leave a comment »

BBQ Jew’s View: Clyde Cooper’s Barbeque

Posted on November 23, 2009 by Porky LeSwine

109 E. Davie Street, Raleigh, NC
919.832.7614
Website
Hours: Mon-Sat 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
BBQ Jew’s Grade: C-
Porky Says: “Cooper’s is past retirement age.”

Urban Barbecue
Given the modest piece of real estate it occupies in the shadows of some of downtown Raleigh’s sparkling new office towers, Clyde Cooper’s BBQ’s continued existence is noteworthy. And the location in the heart of downtown gives Cooper’s a better excuse for not cooking over wood coals than most joints have. Between Cooper’s location and history–the joint has existed since 1938, and founder Clyde Cooper lived from 1899 to 1998–I really want to like it. Yet I have eaten there several times over the years and found it mediocre at best. Because new owners took over Cooper’s late last year, I decided to give it another try.

The good news is that the current owners wisely kept Cooper’s old time atmosphere, thick and authentic, intact. (The NC license plate on the wall that reads “Soieee!” is a nice, I think new, touch). The bad news is the current owners kept the mediocre barbecue intact too.

Still hanging on after 71 years.

Like many joints, both urban and rural, Cooper’s used to cook with wood but the days when grease-laced hickory smoke wafted out of the back of the joint are long since gone. Alas, I suspect it has been that long since Cooper’s has served a good plate of barbecue. The fact that Cooper’s, though an Eastern-style joint in terms of its menu and sauce, cooks hams and shoulders rather than whole hog barbecue, doesn’t help my opinion of it either.

The Food: Not Yuppicue, Just Not Good
I respect the fact that Cooper’s has stayed true to its roots in terms of the feel of the restaurant and the type of menu it offers. It might have been tempting to turn Cooper’s into a sort of barbecue showplace/museum that caters to convention center visitors and other barbetourists. (As an aside, can we organize ourselves as a state and create a barbecue museum already?!) Yet the menu remains simple, the presentation plain and the price fair. That’s Continue reading →

Filed under: Restaurants & Reviews | Tagged: Eastern style, Gas/electric-cooked, Grade C, Raleigh, Wake County | 12 Comments »

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